From an important Roman settlement to a centre of the medieval wool trade, Cirencester has had a long and fascinating history. Styling itself as the ‘capital of the Cotswolds’, this market town on the River Churn is known for its independent shops and restaurants, pretty courtyards, golden stone church and acres of green space. So discover the best things to do in Cirencester, as well as the top places to eat, drink and stay, with this insider’s guide from our local expert.
Cirencester’s history
Cirencester’s recorded history began when Roman Emperor Claudius invaded Britain in 43 AD and chose it as the location for a fort. By 75 AD, a town called Corinium Dobunnorum had replaced the fort, which became an important centre, with a grand amphitheatre, forum and basilica.
By the second century, Corinium Dobunnorum was the second largest Roman town in Britain, covering 240 acres with a population of 15,000.
It’s thought the Roman name came from a local Iron Age tribe, the Dubonnii of the Cornovii. The Old English word corin (corn) gave the town – and River Churn – the start of its current name. And by the Domesday Book of 1086, cester (fort) had been added to make it ‘Cyrescestre’.
After Roman rule came to an end in the fifth century, Cirencester became a Saxon settlement. In 1117, Henry I founded the Augustinian St Mary’s Abbey, which took 50 years to build. The medieval wool trade made the abbey and town a wealthy place, with local cloth highly sought after.
The abbey was destroyed following the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539. And the 1640s saw fighting in the streets as the Royalists and Parliamentarians battled it out during the English Civil War. The town was held by the Royalists from 1643–1645. And King Charles II spent the night of 11 September 1651 in Cirencester, on his way to France after the Battle of Worcester.
The wool industry thrived in Cirencester during the 16th and 17th centuries. But by the 18th century it was in decline, with Cirencester becoming a quiet market town. Farming and later tourism became the town’s main industries, and it’s now a popular place to visit, with a population of 20,000.
Map of Cirencester
Things to do in Cirencester
Shop the markets
Cirencester has a long history as a market town – its Charter Markets are some of the oldest in the country and were mentioned in the Domesday Book. Today Charter Markets take place on Mondays (10am–3pm) and Fridays (9am–3pm) in the marketplace in front of the Church of St John the Baptist. You can pick up fresh produce, bread and cakes, plants, homewares and gifts.
Cirencester also has a farmers’ market on the second and fourth Sundays of the month (9am–2.30pm), and an arts and crafts market on the first Saturday of the month (9am–5pm). And the Corn Hall hosts an indoor market on Sundays–Thursdays (10am–4.30pm), antiques and collectables market on Fridays (8am–3pm) and craft market on Sundays (10am–4.30pm).
Church of St John the Baptist
Cirencester’s Church of St John the Baptist is one of the largest parish churches in England. The oldest part of the building dates from the 12th century and was part of St Mary’s Abbey. The church was rebuilt and added to over the following centuries, including its 15th-century tower.
Highlights include the fan-vaulted ceiling, medieval chapels with elaborate carved tombs, a 15th-century ‘wine-glass’ pulpit and the Anne Boleyn cup – a gift from Anne to a local doctor who treated her daughter (later to become Elizabeth I). You can take a tour of the church to find out about its history. Or climb the tower on selected dates (£5 per person) for views over Cirencester.
Corinium Museum
The award-winning Corinium Museum (entry £7.90 adults, £6.50 over 65s, £3.70 children aged 5–16) takes visitors on a tour through Cirencester’s history. As you’d guess from the name, there’s a strong focus on Roman history, with mosaics and sculptures unearthed locally. You can find out how the Romans lived and worked in Corinium Dobunnorum over their centuries of occupation.
There are also galleries taking you through other periods of Cirencester’s past, with artefacts like Saxon gold jewellery, stonework from the medieval abbey and Civil War-era coins. And hands-on exhibits and regular family-friendly events help keep younger visitors interested.
Cirencester Amphitheatre
In its Roman heyday, Cirencester’s Amphitheatre was one of the biggest in the country. It was built just outside the town walls in the early second century and held 8000 spectators, who would come to see everything from gladiatorial contests and sporting events to public executions.
After the Romans left it was abandoned, and only excavated in the 1960s when Roman coins and remains of the original stands were uncovered. Today it’s looked after by English Heritage (free entry), and although only the earthworks remain you get a good idea of its huge scale.
New Brewery Arts
After the Cirencester Brewery closed down in 1937, its buildings were scheduled for demolition. But they were saved by a local group of artists and turned into craft workshops in 1978.
Now known as New Brewery Arts, you can still meet local makers and see them at work in their studios, as well as buy handcrafted jewellery, pottery and textiles in the shop. There’s also an exhibition space, café and craft classes for adults and kids if you want to try something new.
Abbey Grounds
Cirencester has plenty of green space for a stroll or a picnic on a sunny day. The Abbey Grounds next to the church were once the site of 12th-century St Mary’s Abbey but are now a public park. The abbey was destroyed in 1539, just leaving a Norman Arch which you can see in the north-eastern corner. There’s also a section of an old Roman wall, a lake, bandstand and playground.
Cirencester Park
Cirencester Park has been the seat of the Bathurst family for over 300 years. It stretches across 3000 acres of woodland and open pasture, and is open to visitors from 8am–5pm. The main entrance is at the top of Cecily Hill and a day pass costs £4 adults, £2 children aged 5–15.
There’s miles of walking and horse-riding paths, with dogs welcome. You can get drinks and snacks from the Beano in the Park converted caravan, or visit the shops and restaurant in the Old Kennels. There are also occasional tours of the mansion house – hidden away behind the tallest yew hedge in the world – and the park hosts events like the Cotswold Show and Food Festival.
Cirencester Open-Air Swimming Pool
The Cirencester Open-Air Swimming Pool was built in 1870 by the Bathurst family for the people of the town. It lies on the edge of Cirencester Park with a view of the old military barracks. The pool is open from May to September, with a 27-metre main pool and children’s pool, both of which are filled with natural spring water heated to 26°C, so you don’t need to worry about the cold.
There are a mix of lane and open swimming sessions (entry £6.50 adults, £4.50 over 60s/students, £3.50 children under 17), with special dawn and night swims on selected evenings.
Walks from Cirencester
You can take a free guided history walk around Cirencester led by members of the local Civic Society. Tours last 80 minutes and run between April and August on various days of the week.
Cirencester Ramblers also have some self-guided local walking routes, including an easy 2.5-mile circular walk around Cirencester town centre, the Roman Amphitheatre and Cirencester Park. There’s also a 5-mile circular route through Cirencester Park to the village of Stratton. Or a 9.5-mile circular walk to the source of the River Thames along a disused canal and railway line.
Things to do near Cirencester
Just five miles south of Cirencester, the Cotswold Water Park has 180 lakes set across 42 square miles. As well as being a nature reserve and wild bird habitat, there are lots of activities, including kayaking, paddleboarding and windsurfing, plus a beach and inflatables course.
There are also beautiful gardens nearby, including romantic Cerney House Gardens (4.5 miles) and the Arts and Crafts house and garden at Rodmarton Manor (9 miles). And the Cotswold Sculpture Park (5.5 miles) displays contemporary artworks in an outdoor art gallery.
Cirencester is also within easy reach of the picturesque Cotswold village of Bibury (8 miles), the wool town of Northleach (11 miles) and the antique shops of Tetbury (11 miles). Or learn more about the Cotswolds’ Roman history with a visit to Chedworth Roman Villa (10 miles).
Places to eat in Cirencester
Cafés and delis
One of our favourite Cirencester brunch spots is Jacks, next to the Corinium Museum, who serve tasty brunch bowls as well as eggs on sourdough and brioche pain perdu. And for lunch there are soups, quiches, toasties and burgers. Or coffee lovers can head just out of town to Fire & Flow, who have their own roastery with beans for sale and an espresso bar where you can try them.
Its pastel pink décor and flower wall have made Luxe Cafe Bar a favourite with Instagrammers, but the food tastes as good as it looks. Sweet treats on the menu at their Swan Yard café include pancake stacks topped with Biscoff and Nutella hot chocolates. Another location not to be missed if you want to indulge is He Says She Waffles for delicious sweet and savoury waffles.
Or cosy Diversitea Café inside the Corn Hall indoor market serves a range of ‘specialitea’ blends in vintage china cups. And they have homemade cakes, sandwiches and salads to go with them. You can also shop for Cotswold produce at the nearby Corn Hall Deli, which stocks everything from cheeses and charcuterie to freshly made pies, pastries and sausage rolls.
Restaurants
In the scenic location of Cirencester Park’s Old Kennels, Roots + Seeds Kitchen Garden showcases sustainable local produce, with herbs, fruit and veg grown on site. It’s a bright, relaxed dog- and family-friendly spot for breakfast, lunch or coffee, plus dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. The three-cheese Welsh rarebit is a star, and we loved the crispy Corinium Ales battered fish.
Sam & Jak is a restaurant, café and wine bar serving up local, seasonal dishes, run by two chefs with a great local pedigree (learning their trade at the now-closed Made by Bob). The creative menu uses British produce with an international touch – think curry crab fried rice or roasted heritage carrots with Romesco sauce – with attention to detail without any pretentiousness.
Amore Mio is an authentic Italian restaurant with a warm and welcoming feel. Their menu features classic Italian dishes, including seafood risotto, saltimbocca, pizzas (with gluten-free bases available), pasta and some amazing desserts, alongside a range of wines from across Italy.
Or for something traditionally British, head to Malt & Anchor for fish and chips. They’re winners of the National Fish & Chip Awards, and source their seafood sustainably. As well as the usual cod and chips, you can also get panko-coated calamari or red shrimp, all to eat in or take away.
Pubs and bars
Located right in the marketplace, The Fleece has been welcoming guests since 1651. There’s a relaxed local’s bar for drinks, a lounge and dining room where you can have breakfast, lunch or dinner. The menu is gastropub-style, with signature dishes including pork belly and primavera risotto. There are also 28 bedrooms set across three characterful historic buildings.
The Bear Inn is a popular pub on the corner of Dyer Street. Its 18th-century building has wood beams, open fires and a street-side beer garden. It’s run by the Butcombe Brewery and serves their beer alongside traditional pub dishes made with ingredients from the West Country.
The Twelve Bells is a friendly pub run by a local couple. It’s heaven for real ale lovers, with a changing selection of brews from the region and beyond, as well as ciders, wines and spirits. They also do food – with hearty dishes like sausage and mash, steaks and ham, egg and chips as well as Sunday lunch. There’s a sunny beer garden and they have a lodge* available to rent.
Where to stay in Cirencester
Cirencester has some charming historic hotels packed with original features, including The Kings Head* in a prime position overlooking the Church of St John the Baptist. It has 66 bedrooms and 10 apartments, including the Feature rooms which include medieval, Tudor and Georgian details. There’s also a vaulted spa with thermal suite, two restaurants, a deli, bar and lounge.
Grade II-listed Ingleside House* is located on the edge of Cirencester, just opposite the Barn Theatre. It’s a change from the usual Cotswold country style, with décor inspired by The Great Gatsby that features dramatic colours, Art Deco details and bold wallpaper. There are 11 rooms and suites, a garden room and Téatro restaurant and piano bar, which hosts cabaret nights.
Cotswold Hare* is a boutique B&B in a quiet residential street a short walk from the centre of town. It has seven spacious en-suite bedrooms (two of which are dog-friendly), including a family room. A continental breakfast is included and there’s a conservatory for guests to relax in.
For a budget option, The Barrel Store* is a stylish, modern take on a YHA hostel which is part of the New Brewery Arts Centre and has been designed to be low carbon and environmentally friendly. There are no dormitories, just single, bunk, family and double rooms, some with en-suites and others with shared bathrooms. And there’s a communal lounge, kitchen and laundry.
Or if you prefer self-catering, The Cottage* is a Grade II-listed period property in central Cirencester with two double bedrooms. It’s decorated in light, contemporary style with original beams, a log burner, well-equipped kitchen, sheltered courtyard and off-road parking.
How to get to Cirencester
Cirencester by car
Cirencester is 15 miles southeast of Cheltenham and 17 miles northwest of Swindon. If you’re travelling from the north or south, leave the M5 at Junction 11a and follow the A417 towards Cirencester. Or leave the M4 at Junction 15 (from the east) or Junction 17 or 18 (from the west).
There are several pay and display car parks in Cirencester. There’s short-stay parking in the Market Place (GL7 2NR) and long-stay at Abbey Grounds (GL7 2DA) and Waterloo (GL7 2PY). But if you’re staying overnight, Beeches car park (GL7 1BW) on the edge of town is a cheaper option.
Cirencester by public transport
Cirencester’s nearest train station is Kemble, seven miles away. They’re connected by the Stagecoach 882 bus (except on Sundays) which takes 12 minutes. You can also take the train to Cheltenham and then catch the Stagecoach 51 bus (which runs daily) to Cirencester in 40 minutes.
Or if you’re travelling from London, there are direct National Express coach services from London Victoria to Cirencester several times a day, which take around 2.5 hours.
* This site contains affiliate links, where I get a small commission from purchases at no extra cost to you.
Save for later
You might also like
