Located in the quieter southern Cotswolds, Tetbury is the region’s second-largest town. It was once an important market for Cotswold wool and yarn, but is now best known for its architectural gems, antique shops and royal connections. And if you visit at the right time of year, you can experience the quirky Woolsack Races or Wacky Races. Find out more with our guide from local expert Kim, who shares her top things do in Tetbury, along with tips on where to eat, drink and stay.
Tetbury’s history
Tetbury lies on the site of an ancient hill fort, with its first recorded history in 681, when King Æthelred of Mercia gave 15 acres of land near ‘Tetta’s Monastery’ to Malmesbury Abbey.
Thirteenth-century lord of the manor Sir William de Braose helped Tetbury grow rapidly by giving merchants the right to govern themselves. Tetbury became an important market for the Cotswold wool trade and many grand merchants’ houses from this period can still be seen around town.
In 1623, a group of local residents called the Tetbury Feoffees took over the running of the town. They governed for over 250 years and still play an important role, working as charity trustees to support local causes, as well as being responsible for Tetbury’s Market House.
Tetbury’s wool heritage is celebrated in the quirky Woolsack Races on the spring bank holiday in May. Competitors carry a 60lb (for men) or 35lb (for women) sack of wool along a 240-yard course up steep Gumstool Hill, with first over the line crowned the champion. There’s also the Wacky Races on the May Day bank holiday, a soapbox derby race through the streets of Tetbury.
Look out for dolphins on Tetbury’s Market House and town crest – they’re the town symbol despite it being miles from the sea. One story is it’s because one of the Braose family was saved from drowning in the Irish Sea by two dolphins.
Map of Tetbury
Things to do in Tetbury
The Chipping Steps
Surrounded by picturesque 17th-century weavers’ cottages, the cobbled Chipping Steps are one of the most scenic spots in Tetbury. They were once the entrance to the town – leading people from the church at the bottom of the hill to the ‘Chipping’ or market place at the top. ‘Mop fairs’ were once held there, where farm workers and domestic staff would come to look for work.
The Chipping Steps were built for the Feoffees of Tetbury in 1781, who had them cut in the present site after they originally ran down nearby Chipping Hill. This street is lined with flowers in summer and is a favourite with photographers – but do be respectful of residents’ homes.
Tetbury Market House
Tetbury’s colourful Market House was also built for the Feoffees in 1655 and is still owned by them today. It was originally used for the sale of wool and yarn but over the years it’s also been used as a temporary jail and for storing the town’s fire engine. And it’s still in use today, with markets taking place on Wednesdays and Saturdays, as well as occasional events and exhibitions.
St Mary’s Church
With its 186-foot-tall spire, you can’t miss St Mary’s Church in Tetbury – or the Parish Church of St Mary the Virgin and St Mary Magdalen to give it its full title. There’s been a place of worship on this site since at least 681 AD, but the current church was built by Francis Hiorn in 1777 in Georgian Gothic style. Originally they kept the medieval tower and spire, but these were rebuilt in 1891.
Inside are traditional wooden box pews, 19th-century stained glass windows and two grand chandeliers. The church is one of the venues for the annual Tetbury Music Festival each autumn. And there are occasional tower tours where you can visit the belfry and check out the views.
Tetbury Police Museum
For an insight into a lesser-known side of Cotswold history, go behind bars at the Tetbury Police Museum (open Wednesdays and Fridays 11am–3pm). This free museum in Tetbury’s old Victorian police station takes you through the history of the Gloucestershire Constabulary.
Downstairs the former police offices and cells display a range of memorabilia, from police motorcycles and warrant cards to a collection of handcuffs and restraints from around the world. And upstairs you can see the original Magistrates Court, which was in use until 1969.
Shop for antiques
Tetbury is famous for its antique shops – with around 25 of them at last count, mainly located on Long Street and Church Street. There are several specialist stores, including Artique for Central Asian artifacts, Appley Hoare for French furniture and Jester Antiques for clocks.
Or see what you can uncover at Top Banana Antiques, a five-floor antique emporium featuring different dealers selling a mix of furniture, paintings, prints, china, clothes and books.
Tetbury Goods Shed Arts Centre
Tetbury Goods Shed Arts Centre was built for the Great Western Railway, who ran a branch line between Tetbury and Kemble from 1889 to 1964. After years of neglect and damage by fire, this historic Victorian building was restored to become a centre for arts and culture.
Now it hosts regular exhibitions, theatre, cinema and music performances. There’s also a renovated Finnish railway carriage out the back used for art and craft workshops. And the Whistle Stop Café serves hot and cold drinks, cakes and snacks (open 10am–4pm Tuesday to Sunday).
Westonbirt Arboretum
One of the top things to do in Tetbury is a visit to the National Arboretum at Westonbirt, three miles away (entry £13–£17 adults/£4 children). Westonbirt has one of the finest collections of trees and shrubs in Europe, with 2500 different species spread across its 600 acres. It’s particularly famous for its rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias, autumn colours and the historic silk wood.
There’s also a spectacular Tree Top Walkway, regular guided walks and a Stick Man trail for kids. And Westonbirt hosts a series of events throughout the year, including Forest Live in the summer with concerts from top music artists, and the Christmas at Westonbirt light trail.
Highgrove Gardens
Tetbury is known for its Royal connections, with both King Charles III and Princess Anne living nearby. The King moved to Highgrove, two miles south of Tetbury, in the early 1980s and made it his home, transforming the gardens while making them as sustainable as possible. There are a series of linked gardens, including a stumpery, cottage garden, thyme walk and kitchen garden.
Highgrove Gardens are open to visitors for tours from April to September, as well as for spring and autumn walks (pre-booking essential). You can also add on afternoon tea in the Orchard Room, and shop for souvenirs either onsite or at the Highgrove shop on Tetbury’s Long Street.
Rodmarton Manor
Four miles north of Tetbury, Rodmarton Manor is a Grade I-listed Arts and Crafts manor, home to one of the Cotswolds’ finest gardens. Rodmarton is one of the last country houses built and furnished in traditional style, with everything done by hand using local stone and timber.
The garden spans eight acres and is based upon a series of ‘outdoor rooms’. The house and gardens are open to the public on Wednesdays and Saturdays 2pm–5pm from May-September (entry £15 adults/£7 children). The gardens also open for a spectacular snowdrop display in February.
Walks from Tetbury
Part of the old railway line between Tetbury and Kemble has been turned into a walking and cycling route called The Tetbury Trail. It runs for three miles and is a flat, easy path. Look out for the boards with information about its history, and the former anti-tank bollards dating from WWII.
You can also walk from Tetbury through the Highgrove Estate (5.5 miles), to Avening and Chavenage House (5.5 miles) or to Rodmarton and Tarlton (6 miles). Tetbury & District Footpath Group have downloadable routes on their website, and run guided walks on Tuesday mornings.
Or if you fancy a bigger challenge, Tetbury is on the route of the Monarch’s Way long-distance trail through the Cotswolds, which covers 107 miles between Stratford-upon-Avon and Bristol.
Things to do near Tetbury
Chavenage House, two miles from Tetbury, is a stately home built in 1383 which fans of TV series Poldark or Jilly Cooper’s Rivals might recognise as a filming location. Occasional tours are available for groups (or individuals can add onto a group tour), which are led by the family owners.
Tetbury is also close to the wide open spaces of Rodborough, Minchinhampton and Selsey Commons near Stroud (8 miles), and the National Trust site Woodchester Park and abandoned Woodchester Mansion (10 miles). You can also easily visit Malmesbury (6 miles) with its impressive abbey and Cirencester (12 miles) for Roman history and the Cotswolds Lakes.
Where to eat in Tetbury
Cafés and delis
Located behind Domestic Science – a real treasure trove of a home and lifestyle store that spreads over five floors – is Café 53. It’s a popular place for a cup of coffee and a homemade cake, but also serves soups, salads and sandwiches at lunchtimes, and brunches at weekends. And if the sun’s shining, there’s a big garden out the back with a spectacular centrepiece fountain.
French-inspired family-run café The Gilbertine Kitchen does a brilliant brunch, with Sobrasada Smokey Beans alongside the traditional Eggs Benedict and Full English. And it’s available until 3pm on Sundays so you don’t have to get up early. Lunch is also served Tuesday–Saturday.
Jesse Smith Butchers and KNEAD Bakery share adjoining premises on Long Street and are both great places to pick up fresh local produce – including pies, pasties, sausage rolls, bread and patisserie. Your dog doesn’t need to feel left out either with special doggie treats.
Restaurants and pubs
Lola & Co is a stylish restaurant run by a Spanish family who’ve brought Mediterranean flavours to Tetbury. Their tapas menu features lots of tasty titbits from around Spain, split into vegetable, fish and meat categories, alongside an extensive Spanish wine list. They also run Japanese-influenced cocktail bar KOKO next door – but do book in advance as it only has a few tables.
Casa is pipped as Tetbury’s best Italian, serving a selection of authentic Sicilian favourite dishes made using fresh local ingredients – from pizza and pasta to tiramisu and pannacotta. It’s a warm welcoming place with generous portions, which are also available to take away.
The Royal Oak Tetbury is a charming free house dating from the late 18th century. They serve a good range of real ales and ciders, and the menu includes vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. Food is available in the dining room upstairs or the more casual dog-friendly bar downstairs.
The Snooty Fox is a hotel and restaurant with a comfortable dining room and bar with open fire. The menu mixes British classics with international dishes like pork schnitzel and satay chicken, and they do a good-value two/three course prix fixe lunch plus a traditional afternoon tea.
If you’re walking the Tetbury Trail, make sure to stop at the Trouble House Inn, around 40 minutes from town. It’s a popular destination for a Sunday roast and a pint of local ale, but they also serve seasonal, locally sourced dishes like fish and chips, beef bourguignon and lamb tagine.
Where to stay in Tetbury
The Close Hotel* is a 16th-century townhouse right in the heart of Tetbury. It has 19 individually decorated bedrooms with pops of bright colour (including some dog-friendly rooms), from cosy doubles to deluxe rooms with garden or courtyard views. The common areas include a lounge and bar with open fires, and there’s a hidden garden where you can have afternoon tea.
The Priory Inn* is a friendly Arkell’s Brewery pub with good-value rooms located on London Road. The 14 bedrooms are a mix of doubles, twins and a family room, available room only or B&B. The pub menu features produce from its kitchen garden and there’s a sunny terrace.
If you prefer self-catering, Christmas Cottage* is a 200-year-old Cotswold stone property on Gumstool Hill. It has two bedrooms and plenty of character from wooden beams, a stable door and an inglenook fireplace with woodburner. There’s also a secluded private garden.
Or the four-star Calcot & Spa is four miles west of Tetbury. Its luxurious facilities include tennis courts, indoor and outdoor pools, thermal suites, spa and gym, plus a brasserie and restaurant. The 35 rooms and suites are split between two buildings, including a designated family area.
How to get to Tetbury
Tetbury by car
Tetbury is around 23 miles south of Cheltenham and 26 miles north of Bath. From Junction 18 of the M4 (approx 20 minutes), take the A46 north towards Stroud, then turn right onto the A433 for six miles. From Junction 13 of the M5 (approx 15 minutes), exit onto the A419 (towards Stroud), take the A46 (towards Bath), then turn left onto the A4135 after passing through Nailsworth.
Parking in Tetbury can be challenging. The Old Railyard (GL8 8EY) car park is free and open daily. It’s a little walk up the hill, but gives you chance to see the Chipping Steps. Paid car parking is also available at Old Brewery Lane/West Street (GL8 8LL) and The Chipping (GL8 8EU).
Tetbury by public transport
Tetbury’s nearest train station is in Kemble. From there you can take the Stagecoach 882 bus to Tetbury in around 20 minutes. There are also train stations in Stroud, Yate and Bath, which are linked to Tetbury using the Stagecoach 620 bus. Tetbury is an hour from Stroud, 40 minutes from Yate or 90 minutes from Bath. Though note neither of these buses runs on Sundays.
The Robin, the Cotswolds’ bookable bus service, also covers Tetbury. Its South Cotswolds service allows you to pre-book minibus journeys around the area, including to or from Kemble train station or Cirencester. Rides can be requested and booked via their website and cost £3.
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